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This Swiss-French brand was founded in the early 1990s by creative director Mr Bruno Belamich and CEO Mr Carlos Rosillo. From the start, it was clear from the monochrome utility of Bell & Ross' watches-modelled on instruments for military professionals-that there would be little messing about. And this austere aesthetic quickly won it fans, most notably Chanel, which took part ownership of the company in 1997. This investment allowed the brand to establish a top-flight facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, where it has been ever since. It makes watches for bomb-disposal squads and fighter pilots, yes, but also design-savvy urbanites who are in love with Bell & Ross' crisp, contemporary cool.
There's nothing to be ashamed of: should even the BR 03's 42mm-wide heft of squareness be too much, let alone the 46mm of the BR 01, the 39mm BR S is still a formidable instrument to strap on, while slipping as easily beneath a tailored French cuff as a khaki flight suit. For the man of action, on his day off.
Bell & Ross's first, and most iconic square watch is of course the BR 01, which launched in 2005. At 46mm though, it's a hefty piece. Those looking the same cockpit-inspired aesthetic at a more palatable 42mm size should look to the BR 03 range, which includes the brand's very first diving watch, the BR 03-92.
Not all military personnel are hurtling along at Mach 1 in a Rafale jet. Back at the officers' mess, a more elegant look is encouraged, with a vintage poise, the V of the title. Gorgeous royal-blue and ivory dials bring a sartorial swagger.
As clean and crisp as you could want, the purest of Bell & Ross' oeuvre has one foot in the military watch's heritage, but feels utterly contemporary thanks to clever details such as the oversized nine, 12 and three, plus a date window outlined by a dimple in the small seconds subdial numerals.